Celery Takes Center Stage: A Refreshing Twist on a Classic
In the early 20th century, Chef Victor Hirtzler of San Francisco’s St. Francis Hotel revolutionized the culinary world by elevating humble celery to the main event. This elegant, unexpected first course is a testament to the power of creative cooking.
The Perfect Harmony of Flavors and Textures
To create this masterpiece, cleaned and trimmed celery is briefly braised in chicken broth, resulting in a tender yet crisp texture. The dish is then cooled, allowing the flavors to meld together in perfect harmony. A thick, emulsified tarragon vinaigrette adds a rich, tangy element, while a sprinkle of fresh celery leaves provides a burst of freshness.
Easy to Prepare, Impressive to Serve
This recipe is deceptively simple, requiring only an hour of preparation time and 2.5 hours of chilling. The result is a sophisticated, restaurant-quality dish that’s sure to impress your guests.
Ingredients
For the Celery:
- 2 medium celery bunches (about 4.5 pounds)
- 4 cups homemade or low-sodium chicken broth
- 1/4 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
- 4-5 fresh Italian parsley sprigs
- 3 fresh tarragon sprigs
- 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
- Freshly ground black pepper
For the Dressing:
- 2 anchovy fillets
- 1/4 cup white wine vinegar
- Kosher salt
- Freshly ground black pepper
- 1/4 cup vegetable or grapeseed oil
- 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
- 3 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh tarragon leaves
Step-by-Step Instructions
Preparing the Celery
Remove and separate the outer stalks from the tender inner stalks. Peel and discard the outer stringy layer from each outer stalk, then trim and cut them into 6-inch lengths. Reserve the inner stalks for another use.
Cooking the Celery
Combine the chicken broth, onion, parsley, tarragon, and salt in a large frying pan or Dutch oven. Bring to a boil, then add the celery in 2 flat layers. Reduce heat and simmer until the celery is tender, about 15-20 minutes. Strain the cooking liquid over the celery and refrigerate until chilled.
Creating the Dressing
Blend the anchovies, vinegar, salt, and pepper in a blender. Slowly pour in the oils, then add the tarragon and blend until combined. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.
Assembling the Dish
Divide the chilled celery stalks among 6-8 plates. Drizzle each plate with 1-1.5 tablespoons of the dressing and garnish with reserved celery leaves. Serve immediately and enjoy the oohs and aahs from your guests!
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